Building A Deck

Below are some basic information and tips on building and installing a deck. I hope that you find it useful and helpful.

First check local building codes, regulations and zoning restrictions. It may be that sunshades need approval, that power lines cannot pass over, or that footings, spans and deck railings over slopes must conform to specific standards. Property lines and easements will reduce your options, too. So will any deed restrictions and the location of a septic tank. Next, decide where you want to locate your new deck. Access to the kitchen, living room or family room makes a big difference, indoors and out. Entry from more than one room or a pass-through at a kitchen window also makes a patio or deck more enjoyable. Decks on the north and east side of your house will get less sun and more cooling breezes. Take time to study wind and rain directions in your yard, as well as sun and shadow patterns. See how they vary with the seasons before settling on a site. Terrain will dictate whether you should build a grade-level deck, which stands on its own just a few inches above the ground, or a higher raised deck. For design excitement, consider building one of each, interconnected by a set of stairs.

How big should your deck be? Outdoor rooms should measure about the same size as the largest indoor rooms. Measure your patio furniture and add enough room for pulling out chairs and walking around. A minimum of 5 feet by 6 feet allows two people to sit and relax beside a table, but it´s cramped if anyone else comes along. If money is a problem, start small and add on as your family and budget grows.

Digging and pouring footings

A good deck has its feet planted squarely on the ground, bolted to concrete footings that extend down to below the frost line in your region. Always remember to check for pipes and power lines before digging any holes. Locate footings with stakes and string, as shown in our video.

Dig or bore holes to 6 inches below the frost line, or whatever depth your local building code calls for. Pour a few inches of gravel or crushed rock into each hole, set an 8-inch-diameter fiberboard or cardboard pier form on top of the loose fill, then level and plumb the form. Use a hand saw to cut the forms so the footings will extend a couple of inches above ground level. Pour dry concrete mix into a wheel barrow and add water according to package directions.

A 60-pound bag of mix yields about 1/2 cubic foot of concrete, enough to fill a form that is 8 inches in diameter and 1 1/2 feet deep. Shovel concrete into the form, jabbing it periodically with a long stick to eliminate air bubbles. After the form is filled, level the concrete by dragging a board across the top of the form. While the concrete is still wet, stick a post anchor into the concrete.

Double check that the anchor is level, plumb and located at the exact center of the footing. Let the concrete cure at least two days before you begin construction. Cut away the above-ground portion of the form with a utility knife. Sizing posts, beams and joists. Codes and common sense govern the size of deck framing members. Support decks that are 6 feet or less above ground with 4x4 posts. Use 6x6s for higher decks. Make beams out of two pieces of lumber. A pair of 2x6s can safely span 6 feet, 2x8s 8 feet, 2x10s 10 feet and 2x12s 12 feet.

Sizing joists and posts

Recommended joist spans vary at different spacing. At 16 inches apart, 2x6 joists can span 8 feet, 2x8s 10 feet and 2x10s 13 feet. Increase the spacing to 24 inches and 2x6, 2x8 and 2x10 joists can span 6, 8 and 10 feet respectively.

Decking patterns

For the surface of your deck use 2x4 or 2x6 lumber. Most people install decking at right angles to the joists, but there´s no reason why you can´t nail or screw down boards diagonally or - by doubling up the joists - in a herringbone pattern like the one shown here. Whichever way you choose to go, just be sure to leave spaces about the thickness of a nail between boards.

Building stairs

Build and install stairs before attaching decking boards. Purchase precut stair stringers or lay out your own with a square. Be sure to subtract the thickness of a tread from the bottom step so the steps come out equal in height. Assemble the staircase by nailing treads to all but the top step. Wait until you´ve installed the decking before nailing the final tread. Bolt the top of the assembled staircase to an edge joist. You can also attach stairs with metal stairway hangers. You´ll need to pour a concrete footing for the base of the stairway or bolt it to a precast pad.

Time frame

The amount of time it takes to construct a deck depends, of course, on how big and elaborate it is. You can expect to spend a weekend digging and pouring footings, a second for erecting posts, beams and joists and a third for installing stairs, decking and railings. You´ll need a helper for parts of the framing process. Better yet, throw a deck building party.

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